The best film to use in the Yashica 200 AF will be based on the lens, lighting, and if you want to shoot color or black & white.
Working with an ISO 400 film or higher speed will let you avoid being burdened with a flash and/or tripod.
If you have a need to capture photographs inside or anywhere there is low light, ensure you are using a fast lens.
Kodak UltraMax 400 - This film works well in a plethora of lighting conditions and is a good choice for a color 35mm film. Using Kodak UltraMax 400 you should have the ability to handhold the 200 AF in the majority of situations.
Expect photos to look slightly warm with pleasant skin tones.
Fujifilm Superia X-TRA ISO 400 - Another option that could have better availability depending on where you are in the world.
Fuji images appear to have cooler tones with notable blues and greens compared to Kodak.
Lomography 800 - If you want a color 35mm film with an ISO of 800, there are not very many possible choices. This is the only 35mm film emulsion focused on consumers.
In addition, if you own a medium format camera, it's also available in 120 film format.
Kodak Gold 200 - A staple film that started production in the mid-1980s. Kodak Gold 200 provides the look of snapshots from the 80s and 1990s. For the authentic shooting experience have a flash.
Over-expose it by 1 or 2-stops to produce the most popular look the film can achieve. This will produce the appealing colors people love the film for.
Kodak Portra 400 - Among the film enthusiasts online, Portra 400 is undoubtedly the most widely used color 35mm film. Overexpose it by 1 or 2-stops to get the appearance the film is well-known for.
There are also ISO 800 and ISO 160 versions of Kodak Portra. As well as in rolls of 120 film, 4x5 sheets, and 8x10 sheets.
Fujifilm Fujicolor Pro 400H - The Fujifilm emulsion that is closest to Portra, but with "Fuji colors." Expect to see more vibrant greens and blues.
Sheets of 4x5 or 8x10 film aren't produced, but 120 film is available.
Black and White Film
With reasonable costs and good favorable to use in the Yashica 200 AF.
The main attraction for photography students and budget-minded photographers is the very low price. Even if you don't put yourself in that group, it is good to have low-cost rolls of 35 film on hand for trying out newly obtained used gear.
Kentmere 400 - Manufactured by Harmon Technology, which is also the owner of Ilford. This is excellent due to the fact that allows this to be the most commonly sold B&W film out of the three.
Foma Fomapan 400 Action - It will probably much easier to purchase in Europe as the film is manufactured in the Czech Republic by Foma Bohemia.
A good quality film stock to use for your first few attempts at home developing or film photography. Additionally, a good selection if you happen to be trying out a camera to check that it is working properly.
Ultrafine eXtreme 400 - You can get the lowest price on this film by ordering it from Ultrafine.
They distribute developer kits for film, so if you process film at home you could have previously had interactions with them.
The 2 most popular black & white 35mm films are Kodak Tri-X 400 and Ilford HP-5+ 400. They do have a large amount of attributes that are equivalent that helps make them popular while retaining distinctive looks.
You can create excellent photographs after pushing both films 2-stops. A 35mm roll of film can be shot at ISO 400, 800, or 1600, making them very flexible.
Ilford HP5 Plus 400 - Between the two film emulsions, HP5 Plus has lower levels of contrast and is more affordable. Minimal amounts of contrast can be advantageous due to the fact that contrast can be increased when making a print or during digital processing.
The film still appears very good when pushed 2-stops. It is also known for having subdued grain.
Kodak Tri-X 400 - This film provides a stronger look. To showcase the classic grain structure, contrast, and look of the film, it needs to be processed in Kodak D-76.
Kodak Tri-X unquestionably has greater contrast. That is excellent if it's the style you will want because it requires much less work when making a darkroom print or through digital post-processing.
Film emulsions that make a positive image are typically referred to as reversal, transparency, or slide film. That means a lightbox or projector can be used to show the pictures.
The colors don't need to be inverted to be viewed, contrary to the more prevalent negative film stocks.
Slide films have less dynamic range and latitude than negative film and so they are viewed as more difficult to use.
Kodak Ektachrome 100 - This is a film known for its superb skin tones and fine grain. The colors don't show up oversaturated. The film has been balanced for daylight.
Fujifilm Velvia 50 - Delivers distinctive looking shots that have elevated levels of contrast and saturation. It is incredibly sharp daylight color balanced film. It has the best resolving power of any available transparency film emulsion.
An ISO 100 speed is also out there.
Fujifilm Provia 100F - Delivers realistic and vibrant colors with moderate contrast and color saturation. It is an ultrafine grain film with a daylight color balance.
Foma Fomapan R100 - This is a black and white slide film, claimed by Fomapan as having excellent resolving power, very fine grain, and higher levels of contrast. It's also billed as a substitute for the discontinued Agfa Scala.
Consumer vs Professional Film
Professional films cost more due to the fact they are easier to push, have better dynamic range, and latitude.
You should expect to see a difference in businesses that sell film. Consumer film emulsions can commonly be purchased from big-box stores and pharmacies in anemic amounts. Pro film stocks has to be ordered from an online retailer or photography store.
A film's sensitivity to light is displayed by the ISO.
The less light there's available to get an image, the bigger the film's ISO will have to be. Additionally, be prepared for more film grain.
It is often frustrating to handhold the 200 AF with ISO 100 or slower speed films (ISO 25, ISO 50, etc). This is because in the absence of full sun, the exposure times will most likely take more time than what you can handhold without producing motion blur.
A flash, tripod, and/or fast lens will assist you with longer shutter speeds. The extra equipment may not be needed if you use a higher speed ISO 400 or ISO 800 film.
The ISO dial is labeled as ASA on the Yashica 200 AF. The switch to labeling ISO from ASA (American Standards Association) happened after the creation of the International Standards Organization (ISO).
Latitude is the amount of stops a film can be overexposed while still maintaining usable quality. Pro film stocks have a larger latitude to go along with a somewhat increased price.
Negative film has more latitude compared to reversal film. That is a reason why it's perceived as challenging to work with.
The range between the brightest and darkest details of a photo is described as dynamic range. Sections of a picture that are not in this range will be seen as completely black underexposed shadows or completely white overexposed highlights.
When shooting in a wide variety of quickly shifting lighting conditions, films with a bigger dynamic range are a much better choice.
- Digital cameras 14+ stops
- Negative film up to 13 stops
- Slide film 6-8 stops
Reversal film is considered to be hard to use as a consequence of the constrained dynamic range. An excellent time to try it out is during the golden hour.
35mm film that is sold in metal canisters is used by the Yashica 200 AF. 35mm film can also be described as 135 film, and it is the best-selling type of film.
120 or 220 film, used in medium format cameras, is the only other film format you are probably going to come across.
Swapping the film you are working with will transform the look of your images. This is an example of the terrific things about film.
DX Coded Film
All available 35mm film distributed currently has a DX code. This lets electronically controlled cameras to automatically detect and set the ISO of the film canister put in the camera.
ISO (ASA) on the Yashica 200 AF must be manually selected. Which means that DX-coding will not be of any use.
Yashica 200 AF Resources
Where to Get 35mm Film Developed?
You will find limited possible choices for where to get 35mm film processed. For a more in-depth explanation of the possible choices, have a look at my article on Where to Get Film Developed.
WARNING: Film doesn't get processed on location at pharmacies and big box stores. They ship film off-site to be processed by a 3rd party. Because of this, you won't get your negatives back.
- Develop Film at Home
- Use a Local Photography Lab
- Use a Mail Order Photo Lab
- Pharmacy or Big Box Store
Sending film to a mail-order photo lab to be processed and scanned is the least complicated solution if you are just starting to use film. A disadvantage to this is that it gets really expensive if you are consistently shooting film.
Assuming that you are shooting a medium to high-volume of film, there are two things that you can do to reduce your expenses.
Bulk Loading Film
Among the best ways to reduce costs on film is to buy a bulk roll of 100 feet of film and manually load it into canisters yourself.
Once you've finished, you will end up with about 18 canisters of 36 exposures each. Depending on the film stock you can expect to save 20%-30%.
Keep in mind that you are limited to 100-foot rolls of black & white film. This is due to the fact black & white film is much easier and more affordable to process yourself.
Home Developing and Scanning
It is easy to develop and digitize any film at home. In fact, it is a good method to lower your costs so you can use more film with your Yashica 200 AF.
Black & white film is by far the least complicated to process at home. Temperature and time are both not as vital to get correct with black & white films as temperatures and time are for color negative or transparency film.