The best film to use in the Konica FS-1 will be based on the lighting conditions, your lens, and type of film you want to use.
Working with an ISO 400 film or higher speed will let you eliminate being weighed down with a tripod and/or flash.
If you have a need to shoot pictures inside or anywhere there is low light, make sure that you have a fast lens.
Kodak UltraMax 400 - The film handles a plethora of lighting conditions well and is a fantastic option for a color 35mm film. Using Kodak UltraMax 400 you should have the ability to handhold the FS-1 in most scenarios.
Expect photos to appear slightly warm with pleasant colors.
Fujifilm Superia X-TRA ISO 400 - Depending on your location, this film may be more widely available. It is a top-quality alternative to Kodak emulsions.
In comparison to Kodak, Fujifilm appears to be a little cooler with notable greens and blues.
Lomography 800 - If you want a color 35mm film with an ISO of 800, there are not many possible choices. This is the only 35mm film stock targeted towards consumers.
The film is sold in the 120 film format, to be used in medium format cameras.
Kodak Gold 200 - A staple film stock that was launched in the mid-1980s. Gold 200 provides the look of home snapshots from the 80s and 1990s. Use a flash to get the "nostalgic" look.
To bring the ideal look out of the film, make sure to over-expose it by 1 or 2-stops. This will help you achieve the idyllic colors people love Kodak Gold 200 for.
Kodak Portra 400 - By far the most popular color negative film among film shooting enthusiasts online. Overexpose the film by 1 or 2-stops to get the look and feel the film is well-known for.
Additionally, ISO 160 and 800 versions of Portra. 8x10 sheets, 4x5 sheets, and rolls of 120 film are also available.
Fujifilm Fujicolor Pro 400H - The Fujifilm equivalent to Kodak Portra 400, but with a distinctive color appearance. Expect stronger blues and greens.
It is available in 120, but not in sheets of 8x10 or 4x5.
Black and White Film
With reasonable prices and good favorable for use in the Konica FS-1.
The largest draw for photography students and budget-minded photographers is the competitive price. Even if you wouldn't put yourself in those groups, it's nice to have comparatively cheap rolls of 35 film around for testing recently delivered used gear.
Kentmere 400 - Manufactured by Harmon Technology, which is also the owner of Ilford. This is notable since that allows this to be the most commonly sold B&W film out of the three.
Foma Fomapan 400 Action - It's less difficult to purchase in Europe as the film is made out of the Czech Republic by Foma Bohemia.
A good film to work with for your initial couple of attempts at developing film at home or analog photography. Additionally, a good selection if you happen to be testing out a camera to make sure that it is totally operational.
Ultrafine eXtreme 400 - You can get the lowest price by purchasing it from Ultrafine.
If you process film yourself, you may have used chemicals produced by them to develop your film.
Kodak Tri-X 400 and Ilford HP-5+ 400 are the 2 most widely used black and white 35mm film emulsions. While they both do have unique looks, they have a large amount of traits in common that makes them popular.
Both film stocks can be pushed 2 stops and deliver professional photos. This makes the film versatile as a roll can be shot at ISO 400, 800, or 1600.
Ilford HP5 Plus 400 - The major differences are that HP5 Plus has lower levels of contrast and is cheaper when compared to Tri-X. Lower levels of contrast can be a benefit because contrast can be changed when making a darkroom print or editing digitally.
The film still looks excellent when pushed 2-stops. It is also known for having subdued grain.
Kodak Tri-X 400 - This film emulsion features a stronger rendering to it. To reveal the old-school grain structure, contrast, and look of the film, it needs to be processed in Kodak D-76.
Tri-X undeniably has a higher level of contrast. That's notable if that is the style you are looking for because it means a great deal less work when during digital post-processing or printmaking.
Film emulsions that produce a positive image are referred to as reversal, transparency, or slide film. That means a projector or lightbox can be used to showcase the photos.
The colors don't need to be inverted to be viewed, contrary to the more prevalent negative film stocks.
Slide films are viewed as difficult to work with due to the fact slide film has substantially less dynamic range and latitude compared to negative film.
Kodak Ektachrome 100 - This is a film known for appealing skin tones and fine grain. There is no hypersaturation of colors. The film has a daylight color balance.
Fujifilm Velvia 50 - Offers appealing looking shots that have increased amounts of contrast and saturation. It is astonishingly sharp and balanced for daylight. Matched against all the slide films available, it has the best resolving power.
An ISO 100 speed is also offered.
Fujifilm Provia 100F - Offers natural and vibrant colors with moderate contrast and color saturation. It is an ultra-fine grain film with a daylight color balance.
Foma Fomapan R100 - This is a black and white slide film, noted by Fomapan as having very good resolving power, increased levels of contrast, and very fine grain. It's also regarded as a substitute for the discontinued Agfa Scala slide film.
Consumer vs Professional Film
Pro film stock have a greater dynamic range, are easier to push, and bigger latitude, which is why pro-film costs more.
There will be a significant difference in supply. Consumer film emulsions can commonly be seen in big-box stores and pharmacies in anemic amounts. Professional level film stocks should really be ordered from an online or camera store.
A film's light sensitivity is listed as the ISO.
The less light available to properly expose an image, the bigger the ISO of the film will be required. This comes at the cost of noticeably increased film grain.
It might be hard to handhold the FS-1 with ISO 100 or slower speed films (ISO 25, ISO 50, etc). They will take more time than what you could handhold without resulting in motion blur unless you are in full sun.
To stop this you'll need to use a flash, tripod, and/or fast lens. The additional accessories may not be needed if you choose a higher speed ISO 800 or ISO 400 film.
The dial to select film speed is marked as ASA on the Konica FS-1. The change to labeling ISO from ASA (American Standards Association) happened after the creation of the International Standards Organization (ISO).
Latitude is the range of stops a film can be overexposed while still having satisfactory photographs. Pro film emulsions have a larger latitude paired with a somewhat increased cost.
Negative film has more latitude when compared to transparency film. That is a reason why it's viewed as harder to work with.
The range between the shadows and highlights details of an image is described as dynamic range. Areas of a picture that are not in this range will be seen as white overexposed highlights or totally black underexposed shadows.
When shooting in a wide variety of quickly changing lighting conditions, film stocks with a bigger dynamic range are a better choice.
- Digital cameras 14+ stops
- Negative film up to 13 stops
- Slide film 6-8 stops
Transparency film is thought to be a challenge to use on account of the constrained dynamic range. The golden hour is the ideal time to shoot slide film.
35mm film that is sold in metal canisters is used by the Konica FS-1. In addition, it’s the best-selling film format and sometimes described as 135 film.
120 or 220 film, used in medium format cameras, is the only other film format you are going to encounter.
One of the marvelous properties of film is that you can swap the film you work with and get a fresh look to your photographs.
DX Coded Film
Just about all new 35mm film offered for sale at this point has a DX code. This lets electronically controlled cameras to detect and set the ISO when the film canister is put in the camera.
The ASA (ISO) on the Konica FS-1 needs to be selected manually. So DX-coding isn't going to make a difference.
Konica FS-1 Resources
Where to Get Film Developed?
There are limited options for where to get film processed. For a more thorough explanation of the options, check out my article on Where to Get Film Developed.
WARNING: Film doesn't get developed locally at big box stores and pharmacies. They mail film off to be processed by a third party. As a consequence, you won't be given your negatives back.
- Develop Film at Home
- Use a Local Photography Lab
- Use a Mail Order Photo Lab
- Pharmacy or Big Box Store
Shipping your film to a mail-order photo lab to be processed and scanned is the least complicated choice if you are just getting started using film. If you consistently shoot film, this could be a disadvantage since it can get expensive.
There are a couple of actions that can be done to minimize the costs involved in shooting film, given that you are going through a moderate to high-volume of film.
Bulk Loading Film
Among the ideal ways to spend less money on film is to buy a roll of 100 feet of film and manually load canisters by hand.
A 100-foot roll should fill up roughly 18 canisters of film with 36 exposures each. Depending on the film stock you will probably save 20%-30%.
Keep in mind that you're only going to find rolls of black and white film. This is due to black and white film is much easier and less expensive to develop yourself.
Home Developing and Scanning
You can easily process and digitize any film yourself. In fact, it's a smart method to reduce costs so that you can use more film with your Konica FS-1.
Black and white film is by far the simplest to process yourself. Temperature and development times are both not as imperative to do correctly with black and white films as time and temperatures are for transparency or color negative.